Peter Dale Scott

Wat Pa Nanachat


 

Ajahn Chah ... spent... a very brief but significant time with Venerable Ajahn Mun, the most outstanding meditation Master of the ascetic, forest-dwelling tradition. Following his time with Venerable Ajahn Mun, he spent a number of years traveling around Thailand, spending his time in forests and charnel grounds, ideal places for developing meditation practice.

 

At length he came within the vicinity of the village of his birth, and when word got around that he was in the area, he was invited to set up a monastery at the Pa Pong forest, a place at this time reputed to be the habitat of wild animals and ghosts....

 

In 1966 the first westerner came to stay at Wat Pa Pong (Wat=temple), Venerable Sumedho Bhikkhu. From that time on, the number of foreign people who came to Ajahn Chah began steadily to increase, until in 1975, the first branch monastery for western and other non-Thai nationals, Wat Pa Nanachat, was set up with Venerable Ajahn Sumedho as abbot.

                                                Web: <ksc15.th.com/petsei/biography.htm>

 

 

 

leaf forms trembling

in the forest pool of marble

 

where monks at night

once listened for tiger's breath

 

we watch a long green snake                                                   (a python)

loop itself through the ironwork

 

then belly-flop - phlat!!

into the dry teak leaves

 

behind the sun-spattered terra cotta Buddha

impossible for some minutes

 

to keep eyes closed

to stop listening

 

for slither

 

 

insuperable biases of language

one side talking  spirits and devas

the other of superstition

 

I only know

that when I come back by tuk-tuk                                 three-wheeled taxi

and step through the forest gate

 

my pace slows

I stop looking

 

for the purple sunbirds

as I feel breathed into me

 

something from beyond this

linguistic aporia                                                   difficulty, straits (Greek)

 

 

 

around us on all sides

the slow creaking of the tall bamboos

 

big leaves you can almost hear

when they zigzag down through the butterflies

 

from the dipterocarpus and strangler figs

in the almost sunless gloom

 

the darkness of the forest

opening the darkness within us

 

the wat once walled

inside the forest

as Thailand in Buddhism

 

and now the forest

or what is left of the forest

walled inside the wat

 

 

 

The Thai student from Cornell

who interviewed elderly monks

about the thudong tradition                                            ascetic practice

 

wrote in her Ph.D. thesis

Between 1950 and 1975

the US provided Thailand

 

with $650 billion in support

of economic development                                                Tiyavanich 368

dams golf courses and tourist resorts                                Tiyavanich 244

 

 

In the 1960s, nearly 60%

of the country was forested

and now 17%                                                       TIMEasia.com 8/21/02                     

 

until in November 1988

rain falling on denuded hillsides

killed hundreds of people                                                  Tiyavanich 245

 

logging since then illegal

meaning another source of graft

along with prostitution and drugs                                         Pasuk 141-42

 

eucalyptus planted

for export to the Japanese

in the midst of the peasants' rice                                       Tiyavanich 247

 

Her dissertation director

who had approved of this high rate of growth

as a very considerable achievement                                    Wyatt 282-83

 

and justified clearing forests

by the major security crisis                                                   Wyatt 290

in the shadow of Vietnam                                                      Wyatt 285

 

wrote a foreword to her book

everything I knew

had to be thrown away and rethought                                  Tiyavanich xi

 

he had already written

that Sarit after his coup

arrested intellectuals and journalists                                        Wyatt 280

 

but not how he put Phimontham

the leading meditation monk

into prison for five years

 

if everyone closed his eyes

how to watch for communists?                             Carr 10; Tiyavanich 231

 

the wandering monks chastised                                        thudong monks

some of them maybe killed          

 

every kuti was burnt down                                                    monk's cell

all the fruit trees around the wat

mango longan lime coconut                                             Tiyavanich 234

 

while Ajahn Chah

gave up the wandering life

created his own wat pa                                               forest monastery

 

and later Wat Pa Nanachat                         International forest monastery

Theravadan Buddhism

now in England California

Australia New Zealand Switzerland

 

 

insight      the power of caring

as we never knew it in America

 

the power of Luang Por Ophad                              Venerable Abbot Ophad

to read our minds

in less than fifteen minutes

 

saying first to Ronna

after spitting his betel nut

into a bronze spittoon

 

words I had used that very day

about teaching in Thailand

 

you can't do one hundred percent

if you can do fifty

do fifty

 

and then scolding me

You have little bit samadhi                                                enlightenment

but your mind is sokopok                                                    dirty, defiled

 

and too scattered

as if reading my own fears

so as to change my life

 

 

this power of insight

was once as widespread

as the transboreal forest

 

saints like Alcuin and Wang Wei

drawing on its images

 

to express the wilderness within                                          Scott 525-30

imprinting their holiness

 

which aged inevitably

into education and science

social development

 

at the expense of mental development                                        bhavana

I learned this as a medievalist

 

all the dhammas are one                                                         dharmas

converging

 

 

under the glass case

containing the portrait and skeleton

of the young woman who killed herself

when her husband was unfaithful

 

I sit trying to draw chi

up the ladder of my spine

 

thinking what have we done to Thailand?

good roads electricity

no beggars here at the gate

 

like the children carrying babies

crowding around us in Tachilek

across the border in Myanmar

 

or the two Cambodian girls at the border

searching each other for lice

 

or those banging their pans in Varanesi

their legs crushed or amputated

for the sake of charity

 

if you spend a night

at Tha Ton Riverview resort

you can hear shots over the border

 

or wake to a corpse

floating down the Mae Kok River

 

as down the Mekong in Laos

arms battened to a frame of bamboo

 

part of me thinks

 

     no question about it

     Thailand has escaped

     the bitter colonial legacies

     of Britain and France

     still leaving their imprint

     of poverty and hatred

 

but Thailand independent

since the eighteenth century

when Ayudhya was larger than London

 

remained a forested country

until the 1960s

and the American billions

for counterinsurgency and development

 

with villagers displaced

from the new growth eucalyptus

to become migrant workers

or prostitutes in Bangkok                                                 Tiyavanich 245

 

 

even after the insurgency

Phra Prachak discovered

when he ordained the oldest trees

by wrapping them in saffron robes                                              River 12

 

that what was left of the forest in Dong Yai

remained a battleground                                                 Tiyavanich 246

 

illegal loggers

in league with the military

grenades thrown at his monastery

the roof of his hut

splattered with M16 shots                                                        Pasanno

 

officials petitioning to have him defrocked

till he was finally arrested

 

now nothing left

but a saffron robe in a kuti                                                   monk's cell

books strewn on the floor

small statues of Buddha in disarray                            Bangkok Post 1/4/98

 

villagers forced out at gunpoint

some of their crops plowed under

in other places orderly rows

of another crop planted

in the middle of their rice                                                Tiyavanich 247

 

Ajahn Wan: in today's society

those who know how to extort

oppress and control others

are regarded as geniuses                                                Tiyavanich 243

 

and Ajahn Chah: if you try to live simply

practicing the Dhamma

they say you're obstructing progress                                Tiyavanich 241

 

but part of me thinks

 

     it was happening anyway

     even some Buddhists

     engaged in the crackdown

     Ajahn Uan the sangha head

     looked down on meditation monks

     and tried to force them out

     forbidding villagers to give them alms                      Tiyavanich 173-75

 

     until he became so sick

     he had to take food intravenously

     and meditation practice

     helped him gradually recover                                  Tiyavanich 194-95

 

     even then the Sangha Council

     in 1987

     ordered all ascetics to leave the forests                       Tiyavanich 249

 

I try to look on it

as an exercise

in letting go

that gladness or sadness

is not the mind

only a mood

coming to deceive us                                                                Chah 1

 

caring     teach us

to care and not to care

 

great fame in the end

for Luang Por Chah                                             

 

people came by busloads

they say they're looking for merit

but they don't give up vice                                             Tiyavanich 289

 

Ajahn Chah often said

he felt like a monkey on a string

when I get tired

maybe they throw me a banana                                      Tiyavanich 292

 

the cuckoo-like bird

sings gaily Moha

Moha         the death of the dharma

 

in the withered sun-loud glade                                                                      

 

 

 

 

BIBLIOGRAPHY

 

Stephen Carr,  "An Ambassador of Buddhism to the West," in Buddhism in Europe, edited by Aad Verboom (Bangkok: Crem. Vol. Somdet Phra Phuttajan, Wat Mahathat, 1990).

 

Venerable Ajahn Chah, A Taste of Freedom (Bangkok: Liberty Press, 1994).

 

James Mills, Underground Empire: Where Crime and Governments Embrace (New York: Dell, 1987).

 

Ajahn Pasanno, "Saving Forests So There Can Be Forest Monks," Forest Sangha Newsletter, January 1996, www.abm.ndirect.co.uk/fsn/35/.

 

Pasuk Phongpaichit, Sungsidh Piriyarangsan, and Nualnoi Treerat, Guns, Girls, Gambling, Ganja: Thailand's Illegal Economy and Public Policy (Chiang Mai: Silkworm Books, 1998).

 

Jess River, "We must learn to be leaves." Earth Island Journal (Fall 1993), 12, sino-sv3.sino.uni-heidelberg.de/ FULLTEXT/JR-ADM/river.htm.

 

P.D. Scott, "Alcuin's Versus de Cuculo: the Vision of Pastoral Friendship," Studies in Philology, LXII, 4 (July 1965), 510-30.

 

Kamala Tiyavanich, Forest Recollections: Wandering Monks in Twentieth-century Thailand (Chiang Mai: Silkworm Books, 1997).

 

David K. Wyatt, Thailand: A Short History (Chiang Mai: Silkworm Books, 1993).

 

 

 

From: Mosaic Orpheus, McGill-Queen's University Press, 2009